Chester began life as Deva, one of the great Roman legionary fortresses of Britain, and the Romans left their mark everywhere. From the largest amphitheatre yet uncovered in Britain to a shrine still carved in its original rock, here is how to find Roman Chester today.
Chester Roman Amphitheatre. Photo: Jeff Buck, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0.
The fortress of Deva
The Second Legion Adiutrix began building a fortress here in the mid 70s AD, on a sandstone ridge above a crossing of the River Dee. It was soon rebuilt by the Twentieth Legion, Valeria Victrix, whose title gave the fortress its full name, Deva Victrix. Covering about 62 acres, it was the largest fortress built in Britain in the 70s, with barracks, granaries, baths and a headquarters building.
The city’s very name is a Roman legacy. “Chester” comes from the Latin castra, a fort or army camp, the same root found in Lancaster, Manchester and Colchester.
The Roman Amphitheatre
Just outside the Newgate lies the largest amphitheatre so far uncovered in Britain. In its later form it was a stone ellipse about 12 metres high, with room for around 8,000 spectators, who came to watch gladiators, wrestling, boxing and animal fights. A shrine to Nemesis, goddess of retribution, stood at the north entrance.
Remarkably, it was lost for centuries. Houses were built over it, and it was only rediscovered in 1929. Today the northern half is exposed and cared for by English Heritage, while the southern half still lies under later buildings.
The Roman Gardens
Beside the amphitheatre, between the Newgate and the river, the Roman Gardens display columns and stonework recovered from around the city. It is a peaceful spot to stop on a walk round the walls.
The walls themselves
Chester’s city walls began as the fortress defences, first as a turf rampart and later rebuilt in stone. Parts of the Roman masonry can still be seen, particularly on the northern stretch near the Northgate. Our guide to walking the city walls takes you all the way round.
The Grosvenor Museum
For the stories behind the stones, head to the Grosvenor Museum on Grosvenor Street. Opened in 1886, it holds an important collection of Roman tombstones, many recovered from the city walls, which give a vivid picture of the soldiers and families who lived in Deva. Admission has traditionally been free, but check before you visit.
Minerva’s Shrine
Cross the Old Dee Bridge to Edgar’s Field in Handbridge to find one of Chester’s most unusual survivors. Carved into the face of a Roman sandstone quarry in the early 2nd century, the shrine to Minerva, goddess of wisdom and war, is considered the only monument of its kind in western Europe still in its original position. The figure is weathered, but you can still make out the goddess standing within her little temple.
Chester Life Tip!
Combine the amphitheatre, the Roman Gardens and a stretch of the walls in one easy loop from the Newgate, then cross the river to Minerva’s Shrine.
Chester Life Tip!
Look out for Roman stonework and street names as you walk. The main streets of the Rows still follow the lines of the fortress roads.
For more on the fortress, see the Deva Victrix entry on Wikipedia.
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